The 4 C’s of Diamonds: Carat, Cut, Color, and Clarity

Diamonds can be daunting because there are many types, colors, and qualities to consider and understand before purchasing one.  And when it comes to choosing a brilliant cut traditional diamond set in an engagement ring, you really need to understand the 4 C’s that determine the diamond’s beauty, brilliance, and value:  carat, cut, color, and clarity. 

These 4 C’s determine the value of both natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds. (You can read more about the difference between these types of diamonds here.) Below, I’m breaking down the 4 C’s in simple terms so it doesn’t feel so overwhelming.

Many people think that carat refers to a diamond’s size, when it actually refers to a diamond’s weight. Every gemstone has a different density. This means that two gemstones with the same carat weight may exhibit very different sizes. Additionally, the cut of the stone can also affect the stone’s carat weight.

The carat, or weight, of the diamond affects the price of the stone.  There are certain carat weights that are called “magic sizes” because they are some of the most sought-after stones.  These include ½ carat, ¾ carat, and 1 carat, and the price per carat increases dramatically. Although it is usually extremely difficult to distinguish between a .95 carat diamond and a 1 carat diamond, the price difference between them is significant.

CUT:  Craftsmanship = Sparkle Factor

The cut of a diamond is all about craftsmanship and refers to how well the stone is faceted and how it reflects the light. It has nothing to do with the stone’s shape – round, oval, marquise, etc.  While the stone’s shape is a personal preference, the cut determines the stone’s sparkle factor.  A well-cut stone creates a brilliant sparkle, while a poorly cut stone will not reflect the light as well and may even appear dull.

Per the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Cut Grading System, a stone cut is given one of these grades: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor.

COLOR:  A Diamond's Reflective Hue

Diamonds are found in an array of colors from completely colorless (grade D) to brown or yellow hues (grade Z).  Traditionally, diamonds with less color are considered rare and more valuable, and their value increases over time. However, a diamond does not have to be completely colorless to be considered a high-quality diamond.  Fancy colored diamonds, those that are blue, red, pink, etc., are diamonds whose color is more intense than a grade Z.  Depending upon the intensity of their color, fancy colored diamonds can sometimes surpass the value of colorless diamonds because they are rare.

DIAMOND COLOR CHART

D – Absolutely colorless and extremely rare.

E – Colorless with only minute traces of color that can only be detected by an expert gemologist.

F – Colorless with a slight color detected by an expert gemologist, but still considered high-quality diamonds.

G-H – Near-colorless with slight color noticeable when compared to diamonds of better grades to the naked eye.

I-J – Near-colorless with a tint of color in certain lighting to the naked eye.

K-Z – Color is very noticeable to the naked eye.

 

CLARITY:  A Diamond's Make-Up

A diamond’s clarity is about how clear the stone is and measures the internal inclusions and blemishes, which are also found in all gemstones. For traditional brilliant cut diamonds, fewer inclusions means a clearer stone with more sparkle factor.  However, when it comes to other types of diamonds, like salt and pepper or rustic diamonds, the inclusions are what help make the stone beautifully unique.

The clarity of a diamond ranges from flawless to included, and it is determined by how noticeable these imperfections are under 10x magnification, though many are invisible to the naked eye.  Below is a quick diamond clarity chart to better understand what the various grades mean:

DIAMOND CLARITY CHART

FL (Flawless):
No inclusions or blemishes seen under 10x magnification

IF (Internally Flawless):
No inclusions, only surface blemishes, under 10x magnification.

VVS1/VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included):
Minute inclusions, very difficult for experts to see.

VS1/VS2 (Very Slightly Included):
Minor inclusions, observed with a lot of effort.

SI1/SI2 (Slightly Included):
Noticeable inclusions under 10x magnification, usually invisible to the naked eye, especially with SI1.

I1/I2/I3 (Included):
Obvious inclusions that can be visible to the naked eye that impacts both transparency and brilliance of the stone

Now that you have learned the 4 C’s of diamonds, the best way to go about diamond shopping is to balance the carat weight with the cut, color, and clarity, and you are on your way to finding that perfect stone.

Explore all the available diamond jewelry, and diamond rings, here.